Alaska: Day 7

Wed, Jun 24, 2009

Today was just great! Slept in a little, grabbed a totally decent falafel for lunch, then headed to Seward for a kayak outing, after making a quick stop at Walmart for some cold-weather gear (thus breaking my self-imposed Walmart ban).

We did a 6 to 10 p.m. guided outing on Resurrection Bay, with Kayak Adventures Worldwide. Given the extended daylight hours here, it was more like a daytime outing on a cloudy afternoon. Except cold!

The trip was great — we saw a couple sea otters (adorable!) and some sea lions (large and fascinating). The sea lions followed us for a good while, briefly getting right behind the two-seat kayak I was sharing with a new friend I met at the wedding the other day. Even our very excellent guide, Fran (whom I highly recommend!), seemed a little concerned about how close they were staying to us.

The water temperature was in the upper 30s, with the air temperature probably close to 50, but with a little wind and rain. I wore an undershirt, pullover, rain jacket, stocking cap and long pants. I rented rain pants from the guides, and wore a life jacket and skirt (to keep water out of the cockpit). I was toasty enough with all that that I was able to keep my hands glove-free, which I prefer.

The waves were fairly gentle, and the two-seat kayak was very stable, so no worries. It was awesome paddling around on a slightly foggy bay with ice-capped mountains in the background. Oh, and the cute otters! And, I saw a rainbow in the mountains for the second day in a row!

This was definitely my best kayak outing ever. I want to come back to Alaska for some longer kayak trips.

Got back to Anchorage a little after 1a.m. (hit some road construction), and posted pictures to my Flickr account. No photos in the water because of the rain, but some shots from a break we took halfway through the trip.

Alaska, Days 5 & 6

Tue, Jun 23, 2009

So, I missed a day of updating. On Sunday, I spent the daylight hours:

  • Watching the U.S. men’s national soccer team improbably advance to the semifinals of the Confederations Cup, after losing the first two games of their three-game group phase. Advancing with Brasil while knocking out defending World Cup champ Italy, and Egypt, isn’t too shabby.
  • Checking out the art and history at the Anchorage Museum. Interesting fact: 1 in 62 Alaska residents owns an airplane (at least, that was true when the Alaska history exhibit was designed).
  • Eating a delicious halibut burger at Humpy’s. Oh, and enjoying some Moose’s Tooth beer.

After that, went to a very nontraditional (but quite lovely) wedding, and crashed at the group cabin…

…where I woke up on Monday, relaxed with a nice group of folks for a few hours, then headed back into town for lunch. Then, I headed northeast of Anchorage with my friends to the Matanuska Glacier. We had to pay $15 apiece to access a private road to the glacier, which sounded like a big-league screw at first, but turned out to be totally worth it! We took a 20-minute hike out to the glacier, then climbed around on it for a half hour or so.

It was a pretty cool experience… the glacier is gradually retreating, and we stolled through a jagged, rocky wasteland that the glacier had left behind. We didn’t realize at first when we gradually made the transition onto the glacier, because the edges are pretty gritty. But, at some point, we noticed that the ground beneath us was frozen. Eventually, we worked our way out onto the white part, and climbed around for a while until we came across some pretty steep walls of ice. I posted a load of photos on my Flickr account.

We worked our way back into town for a late dinner at Orso.

Alaska: Day 4

Sun, Jun 21, 2009

Saturday has been the nicest day, weather-wise, so far. We had a good bit of sun (I actually got a little too much), and highs in the upper 50s, I think. I want to marry Anchorage’s summer weather and have like a million of its babies.

Headed downtown in the morning to poke around while waiting for my friends. Came across a gay pride parade that was surprisingly large… the lesbian pirate float was my favorite. Grabbed a quick snack at Glacier Brewery and caught part of the Spain-South Africa Confederations Cup game on TV.

Hooked up with my friends and headed to the Alaska Native Heritage Center on the northeast side of Anchorage. The place is a pretty clever idea… there’s no way most folks will have the time or resources to travel to rugged, remote corners of the state to see all 11 of Alaska’s distinct native cultures, so they’ve brought samples of them to Anchorage, and employed a lot of natives to tell their stories. Here’s what struck me most: it’s a cruel joke to put people in some of the coldest places on earth, then deny them access to plentiful firewood, leaving them to use whatever driftwood they can find to help build structures. Fortunately, these are some pretty resourceful folks, and they found ways to survive winters that can get up to 70 below zero in some places. Hint: lots of fur and dancing.

Went back to the lodge where my friends are staying after a quick stop at the grocery store, where I learned a lesson about the price of shipping goods to Alaska. Relaxed on the deck for a bit, and that gradually faded into a wedding rehearsal dinner for 30 or so folks. Got a bit tipsy, and the youngest of my traveling companions helped make sure I didn’t miss my ride back into the city.

Have I mentioned how beautiful this place is?

Forgot to say that, on Friday, we saw a bike trail that had been closed because of recent bear activity in the area. That would be enough to get me to take a detour!


Alaska: Day 3

Sat, Jun 20, 2009

Started off a little slow because of beers consumed over many hours the day before, but a cheese danish and hot tea worked their magic, and I was ready to hit the road with my friends before 11 a.m. Destination: Seward, a great little town of less than 3,000 on a bay off the Gulf of Alaska. What a beautiful, beautiful drive.

A couple hours later, we were sitting in the Smoke Shack. And sitting. And sitting. This lunch spot in an old rail car was recommended by Lonely Planet, but the usually reliable guide book missed the mark. We were greeted with friendly but absentminded service, mediocre food, and a wait so long that some people got up and left before their food was eventually cooked. I’m not even close to a picky customer, but this place really annoyed me (especially since I picked it). Skip it, unless you’ve got like 2 1/2 hours to waste. Well, the view of mountains was nice.

Next stop was the Seward Museum, a cute little local history museum staffed by a guy with a beard that puts Santa Claus to shame. Great old photos and info on Seward’s favorite son — Benny Benson, who designed Alaska’s flag. Plus, an electric hair curler from 100 years ago.

Next was the Alaska Sealife Center, a beautiful facility that was sort of paid for by Exxon in the aftermath of the Valdez oil spil. Only not really, because the money didn’t come direcly from Exxon, but rather from a settlement fund provided by Exxon. Despite making a big deal about that distinction, the place feels like it treats the oil giant with kid gloves. An exhibit itemizes the many species that have recovered, then mentions that some other species are still “in recovery,” without listing them. Much of it was designed for kids, but I enjoyed it… got to sea an otter and a sea lion, plus some small aquariums filled with exotic stuff, including what we called the “mobster tank” because of the seedy looking characters it contained.

Beautiful drive back to Anchorage, followed by a quick drop in on my new favorite bar (if you were following me on twitter, you would have seen a photo) and some good pizza from Baranof Pizza. Now sipping an Alaskan Amber and thinking about snapping a shot of Alaska’s midnight sky.

Will be back in Seward on Tuesday if things work out like I’m hoping, for a kayak trip on the Gulf of Alaska’s Resurrection Bay.

Alaska: Day 2

Fri, Jun 19, 2009

I’m sitting on tbe deck at my new favorite Anchorage bar, unwinding and looking at the mountains while enjoying a lovely, sunny 56 degree evening. I’d post a photo, but there are power lines and a pawn shop in the foreground. My hotel’s not in the best neighborhood…

My day started early; I left my work phone on, and a 9:28 phone call in Louisville is a 5:28 phone call in Alaska. I’ll remember to turn that off tonight. I watched Brasil trounce the U.S. men’s national soccer team on TV, then headed downtown for breakfast.

Spent most of my day just getting my bearings. Walked much of downtown. Wrote some postcards. Went to a stream to watch salmon spawn (not much to see). Visited the State Trooper museum (not much to see). Bought some new sneakers. Caught a ride out to the cool rental house where my friends are staying. Enjoyed a lazy rainy afternoon drinking on their deck, while gazing at what I think was Chickaloon Bay, looking at (what else?) mountains in the distance. Heard a moose in the woods, but never saw it.

Came back back into town for a nice dinner (salmon with potatoes and asparagus, thanks for asking), and I now find myself at this bar. Wish my camera could do justice to the view from my barstool; the mountains are stunning and snowcapped.

Alaska: Day 1

Thu, Jun 18, 2009

Left Louisville at 7:25 on Wednesday morning for an 8-day trip to Alaska. Staying in Anchorage, with some day trips out into the state.

Got to Anchorage at 6 p.m. Alaska time (10 p.m. Louisville time). I’m too tall for coach, but I don’t make first class wages, so I had to fold myself into a cheap seat.

Rewarded with a great view of the mountains from the airport terminal, and from pretty much everywhere else in town, too.

The Sun shows no sign of setting, so –after a detour to an Alaskan lodge-style bar near my hotel — I’ll be going to bed in daylight.

My hotel is a little different, but adorable. The clerk (owner?) let me look around and choose my own room!. The room I chose was recently remodeled. It opens up directly into the bathroom, with the bedroom behind that. Most importantly, you can see the mountains from my window!

I’ll be updating my twitter account on the go.

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